John asked me to describe what I would recommend in order to have the ultimate M51. So, here goes, from the top down:

References

--Get that excellent Israeli Sherman book by Tom Gannon. It has all the photos you will need.

--Get a copy of the Military Modelling articles, July 1984 and August 1986, by Vasko Barbic. The one has scale drawings of the turret, and the other has a drawing of the scissor mount. Both have other detail drawings and some photos as well.

--Get John Myszka’s excellent book, Israeli Military Vehicles, The First 50 Years 1948-1998. It also has nice photos, and a ton of information on IDF vehicles, from A to Z.

Turret

--The best T23 turret on the market today is from Bill Miley and Chesapeake Model Designs. Buy the version with the oval loader’s hatch. Remove the rear portion of the bustle, leaving a shelf to support the new casting.

--Remove the bustle from the Academy kit. It is narrower than the DML part. It should fit better, but, if not, it is easier to add than take away.

--The same goes for the mantlet, although the DML piece looks better. Test fit both and go with DML if it fits, but either will do.

--Use the Accurate Armour muzzle brake

Hull

--There are choices. For a cast hull vehicle, modify the Italeri hull, by cutting out the engine deck and modifying the rear face according to the desired Batch specs. The DML hull, as corrected will do. For a welded hull vehicle, use the Tamiya M4A3. Remember to add the 4-inch extension for the lower rear doors in any case. For the engine deck, use the DML part for the Batch 2-4 vehicles, because the louvers look better. For the Batch One vehicle, I’d start with the MP Models part, because I think it is better detailed, maybe because I did the masters. You could also use it for the others, but, frankly, the louvers are a little too big, but useable. The shroud and exhaust are better also, in my opinion.

Suspension

--Use the MP Models bogies and wheels, idler and idler mounts. They may need some cleanup, but they are the most accurate. The sprocket choice will depend on your choice of track.

--AFV Club’s T80 track will be a bear to build, but you can’t beat it for detail. It has separate end connectors with pin detail, and separate guide horns with the bolthole. Second choice is the DML track. The third choice is the MP Models track, which although it has the best cleat detail, it has solid guide horns and is difficult to line up straight.

Tools and Fittings

--The plastic tools with the best shape are Tamiya’s. If you can get the resin tools from CMD, use them first, then Tamiya or Tank Workshop. The brass tools have better detail, but unless they’re in 1/35^th scale, forget them.

--There is a choice for stowage. For spare track, in order, use DML and MP Models. Boxes, in order, use Accurate Armour, because they have hinges, MP Models, because I like them and we were nice enough to include the smaller ones too, then DML. For jerrican racks and cans, use DML, then Accurate Armor. If you want to mix old and new cans, use Italeri. Remember that you can do either the stowage style that’s in the kits or you can substitute the M50 style, including the travel lock. DML has a better M50 style travel lock.

--Aber has a nice photo-etch set for the M50, most of which can be used here also. Verlinden had a nice limited fret included with their old turret, if you can find it. Throw away the turret if you do.

You can super-detail to your heart’s content. Use the photos and remember that the stowage on the real thing is not glued to the tank. It is mounted with brackets, bolts or welded and so on. A lot of this you can simulate, but you can’t just leave things hanging in mid air like Verlinden did years ago. Oops, giving my age away.

Enjoy!!

Tom Gannon