Academy M51
Just like DML, Academy is inconsistent with the quality and effort that goes into its kits. This one is a mix of good and bad. Essentially, what you get in the box is most of a very late M51 that is a little easier to backdate than DML’s. It has some very nice features, like separate periscopes and covers, springs for the loader’s hatch and a more accurate suspension. It also has questionable flexible tracks.

Suspension
I admit that I haven’t yet built the entire kit, but I did use the suspension on a Ugandan M1 Super Sherman with HVSS. (Now is a good time to preach. J The only true "Super Sherman" is the M1, otherwise known as the M4A1 (76) with either VVSS or HVSS. The terms use elsewhere, including with the Academy M51 and DML M50, is pure fiction. The IDF used "Super Sherman" to differentiate between the "regular" 75mm Sherman, designated "M3" by the Israelis, and the 76mm version.) The backside of the bogie is far more accurate than DML’s part. The suspension goes together well, and should drop right onto the Tamiya hull also. (Be careful, though. Tamiya’s mold maker years ago made a mistake. Both sides do not match, with the pads on one side sitting up higher. They compensated by re-locating the pins on that side. Even Tamiya molds can be imperfect!) The only problem is with the tracks. They look fine on the road surface. However, the guide horns have a strange looking set of pips that are impossible to completely remove. They and the hollow appearance of the horns are due to mold limitations that Academy elected to accept.

Turret
In my opinion, this turret captures the feel of the T23 shape somewhat better than DML, although it is far from perfect. Others say it is too small, perhaps, but, then again, DML’s turret is a little too wide. The gun looks sufficiently massive, but the muzzle brake is too flat. Again, go with the Accurate Armour set. The rear bustle is a little narrow at the back, and the weld seam is just a tad too far back. That is easily fixed. The cast texture is a little bit like a laser imprinted orange peel, and must be fixed. See the comments above. The mortar mount is there, but, again, the mortar is missing. They also put the .50 caliber where it would interfere with the mortar, and forgot about the scissor mount for the .30 caliber.

Hull
The hull is shaped better between the hatches, but it also has that laser orange peel texture. US castings are, again, quite relatively smooth. This is particularly true of the later M4A1 hulls. The Italeri hull may be too smooth, but that was done to ensure that the part cleared the mold. Too many people add enough texture to qualify the item as a Soviet WWII production item. I usually thin down red auto body putty with liquid cement and stipple some areas to create raised areas. When dry, I carve the tops down almost flush with the plastic. This creates shallow pits. I also trowel on some thinned putty to get that previously discussed buttered look. The combination should result in just a hint that the pieces came from a sand mold. Subtlety is more important with the use of the putty, or even when using liquid cement straight on the plastic. Do not leave any mountainous ridges and bumps. Let the paint and dry brushing bring out the depth.

As mentioned, this is most like a Batch Three vehicle, without the extra length in the rear. It does have the large bin, but Academy also provides the earlier shelf. They seem to want to give the modeler variety and choices, which is a nice touch. The extension for the lower rear doors is nicely done.

The engine deck has good and bad points. It’s a little easier to backdate to Batch Two, because the exhaust shroud is a separate piece and you do not have to fill in a hole. However, the louvers are a little too big.

The side fenders here are also too wide, but, in this case, they are molded on, making it more difficult to correct. The braces are very nice though.

Tools and Fittings

I’m prejudiced toward molded on jerrican brackets, but others may like them. Academy overlooked the fact that the side boxes come in two sizes, so that is a major problem. Other parts are missing, as above.

The tools come from the US Tank Supply and Accessory Set, and they’re not bad.

Backdating the Academy M51

Batch One

Build the kit out of the box, except:

--The engine deck and exhaust must be altered as above for the DML kit.

--The hull rear is already in the correct configuration. Use the shelf and put the large bin aside for a DML M51.

--Remove the mortar mount from the turret top.

Batch Two

Build the kit as above, except:

--Remove the locating pins for the exhaust pipe and shroud. Leave the pin on the forward section. It’s for the travel lock clip.

--There is a gap in the metal weather strip on the deck. Fill it in, including the inset edges so that it is a continuous piece.

Batch Four

Modify the kit as recommended for the DML kit above, except:

--I haven’t done this, so I cannot give measurements etc. However, you must extend the rear surface of the upper hull by approximately 7 scale inches at the bottom edge of the sponson. This can be done either by removing the rear of the hull and tilting it from the bottom, or you could build up the existing surface to accomplish the same thing.

--The mortar mount is already there.

Personally, this is all too much trouble, when you can get an adequate Batch Three vehicle out of the box. Keep in mind that not all vehicles got the same upgrades at the same time, if at all. Just look at the news photos from the current conflict. You will see a mix of vehicles in the same unit, along with differences in the upgrades. For instance, not all Merkava 1’s got all of the upgrades, while others are indistinguishable from Merkava 2’s. The M113 variants are even a better example.

Tom Gannon